Cultural Ownership, Lesson 2
Lesson 2: Fact-Finding Task
Focus: How do real-world examples of Indigenous fashion co-option and genuine collaboration highlight tensions between ethics, cultural ownership, and knowledge?
Suggested length: 1 hour
Learning objectives:
- Investigate real-world case studies that illustrate how the co-option of Indigenous fashion impacts the visibility, credibility, and accessibility of knowledge.
- Substantiate or challenge the claims from Lesson 1 using evidence from media articles, video interviews, and brand case examples.
- Develop critical thinking and source evaluation skills by connecting practical examples to abstract knowledge questions
| Critical Thinking Concepts | TOK Concepts | Reflection Questions |
|---|---|---|
| Confronting Biases and Assumptions: Evaluate how assumptions that “visibility and profit are always good” shape perceptions of brand collaborations and reflect on how dominant cultural norms shape what is perceived as appreciation versus appropriation. Exploring Contexts: Examine how corporations and global fashion industries influence which cultural knowledge is celebrated, distorted, or erased and how cultural appropriation is perceived differently across societies. Extrapolation and Reapplication of Principles: Analyze how power, platform, and representation affect which voices are amplified or tokenized in cross-cultural work. | Power: How do global brands, economic systems, and media platforms influence whose cultural knowledge is amplified, commercialized, or silenced? Ethics: What responsibilities do brands and creators have when engaging with cultural knowledge from communities that have historically been marginalized? Perspective: How do different cultural, social, or economic positions influence how people interpret an act as appropriation or respectful collaboration? | How did your case study affect your view of cultural appropriation vs. collaboration? Who benefited most in your case — designers, communities, or corporations? Can collaborations with Indigenous communities truly be equal when power and profit are so unevenly distributed? What role should visibility, credit, and consent play in determining whether cultural knowledge is used ethically? Should all uses of Indigenous fashion require community approval, or are there exceptions? |
Resources and Preparation
- Slides, attached below.
- Students will need access to their Kialo discussions from Lesson 1.
- Ensure students complete the homework preparation task.
- Videos/readings accompanying the case studies of your choice should be viewed in advance.
Homework Preparation Task
Case Study Task
Divide students into small groups and assign each group a case study related to the topic.
Students will add their evidence to the Kialo discussion from Lesson 1.
Each group will:
- Reflect on how these cases connect to the concepts discussed in Lesson 1.
- Explore their assigned case using the provided resources and their own research.
- Prepare a short presentation (5–10 mins) responding to the following question: "How does the brand's use of Indigenous fashion affect the visibility, credibility, or accessibility of knowledge in this case?"
- Students should include details of:
- What happened in the case.
- How cultural appropriation or collaboration influenced what Indigenous knowledge was visible or valued.
- Which TOK concept (power, culture, perspective, or ethics) is most relevant.
- Whether the case supports or challenges a claim from Lesson 1.
Case Study Options
Isabel Marant and Mixe Blouse
- Focus: Alleged cultural appropriation of traditional Mixe embroidery from Santa María Tlahuitoltepec, Oaxaca, Mexico.
- Task: Examine the debate surrounding the originality of designs, intellectual property rights, and community impact.
- Resource:
Louis Vuitton and Maasai Check
- Focus: Use of the iconic Maasai shuka (red and blue checked fabric) in Louis Vuitton's collection without initial recognition or compensation.
- Task: Analyze the ethical implications of using globally recognized Indigenous patterns and the subsequent efforts towards negotiation or legal protection.
- Resource:
Urban Outfitters and Navajo Nation
- Focus: Controversy over Urban Outfitters using "Navajo" and other tribal names for products without permission, leading to a legal battle.
- Task: Investigate the legal challenges of trademarking Indigenous names and designs, and the concept of cultural brand dilution.
- Resource:
Stella Jean and Haitian Artists/Artisans
- Focus: A Haitian-Italian designer known for highlighting Haitian craftsmanship on global runways. Celebrated for promoting cultural visibility, her work also invites reflection on what fair and authentic collaboration looks like.
- Task: Explore how Stella Jean’s approach balances empowerment and complexity in cross-cultural partnerships.
- Resources:
Introduction
Recap and Frame the Task
Review key arguments from the previous debate on cultural ownership.
Quick group reflection: What claims did you find most convincing or most problematic in last class’s debate? Were there any claims that felt hard to prove or lacked real-world examples?
Present the task’s guiding question: "How do real-world examples of Indigenous fashion co-option and genuine collaboration highlight tensions between ethics, cultural ownership, and knowledge?"
Emphasise applying ownership, power, culture, perspective, and ethics to evaluate how language shapes digital knowledge.
Bridge to Lesson 2
Explain that students will now investigate how real-world practices, policies, and brand strategies influence what Indigenous knowledge becomes visible or credible.
Clarify the goal: Move from opinion to evidence. These case studies are not about cultural appropriation in theory — they are about who gets heard, trusted, or erased because of how designs are used.
Main Activity
Presentations
Students present their case studies to the class.
Students should take note of any useful points from other groups’ presentations to use in the Kialo discussion.
Recording Findings in a Kialo Discussion
Students return to the Kialo discussion from Lesson 1 and:
- Add at least one new claim or counterclaim based on their case study.
- Reply to at least one peer’s argument, using insights from another group’s case.
- Label their post with the relevant TOK concept (e.g., power — Louis Vuitton/Maasai).
Focus areas for Kialo updates
- Cultural Gatekeeping: Who controls which cultural designs/stories are shared or profited from?
- Ethical Framing: How do collaborations and appropriations shape the meaning and value of Indigenous fashion?
- Knowledge Inequality: Are all cultural knowledge systems equally respected or valued in the global fashion industry?
Reflection Activity
Discuss the following reflection questions in open discussion or exit ticket format:
- How did your case study affect your view of cultural appropriation vs. collaboration?
- What made certain examples feel more exploitative or more empowering?
- Who benefited most in your case — designers, communities, or corporations?
Exit Ticket or Class Discussion:
- Can collaborations with Indigenous communities truly be equal when power and profit are so unevenly distributed?
- What role should visibility, credit, and consent play in determining whether cultural knowledge is used ethically?
- Should all uses of Indigenous fashion require community approval, or are there exceptions?
